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شامبليون ليس هنا!

أنت لن تقع في الخطأ الشهير وتتصور أن القصر المهيب المهمل في شارع شامبليون، هو بيت عالم المصريات الشهير الذي فك رموز شفرة حجر رشيد ومن ثم افتتح الطريق لفهم لغة المصريين القدماء وكشف أسرار مصر الفرعونية، إنه القصر المسمّى – شعبيا على الأقل- قصر شمبليون، لكنه -كما يعرف الأثريون- قصر الأمير سعيد حليم أحد أمراء الأسرة العلوية.

توفي شمبليون في باريس ولم يزل حينها شابا في الثانية والأربعين من العمر، ولم يكن القرن التاسع عشر قد بلغ ثلثه بعد، بعد مئة عام، تحول اسم شارع وابور المياه في القاهرة الخديوية إلى “شارع شمبليون” تكريما له، ظل القصر الأميري الهائل مهملا قبل وبعد أن تولته وزارة التعليم حين حولته إلى إحدى مدارسها العامة، اليوم تمرح الفئران والغربان بين الأعمدة الرائعة والتمائيل المهيبة، أما وابور المياه فاحتلت مكانه جراجات وعيادات النقل العام، كأنما لتمحو تماما الاسم القديم، ويبقى الاسم شبه الجديد، شارع شمبليون، علامة مجد الأمس الذي لا يدل عليه شارع اليوم، الذي تهيمن عليه ورش السيارات نهارا والمقاهي ليلا.

غير أن الملمح الفرنسي، لا ينتهي هنا – في الشارع- عند اسم شامبليون، فهنا في بناية لا علامات مميزة لها، يختبيء المقر العريق لـ “أفلام مصر العالمية”، شركة يوسف شاهين التي طالما كانت على علاقة قوية بالفرنسيين الذين دعموا صاحب “باب الحديد” قبل أن يصبح -في نهايات مشواره- مخرجا جماهيريا، من هنا خرجت روائع السينما المصرية للأستاذ وتلامذته أيضا، لم يعد “جو” هنا كما لم يعد شامبليون ولا سعيد حليم، ولكن ذاكرة الشارع تحمل كل شيء.

“مثلث الرعب” في القسم الثالث من “شمبليون”

جغرافيا، يمتد شامبليون طوليا بين شارع 26 يوليو وميدان التحرير، بين دار القضاء العالي بالإسعاف ومدخل عبد المنعم رياض، وهو إن نظرنا إلى خطوط العرض يفصل بين عالمين، عالم شارع طلعت حرب بمحلاته ورواده ومتنزهيه، وعالم “حى معروف” الشعبي، بأزقته وعطفاته وحاراته الضيقة، يمكن تقسيم أجواء شمبليون نفسه من زاوية ثالثة إلى ثلاثة أقسام، الجزء الهاديء في بدايته من جهة التحرير، حيث البنوك والجاليري والأكشاك المتباعدة، وجزء متوسط صاخب شعبي، حيث ورش السيارات ومحلات قطع الغيار وباعة الخبز ومطعم الكباب الشهير ومطعم الكشري الأشهر، وقسم ثالث في نهايته من جهة الإسعاف، ساخن وسياسيّ، حيث ملتقى أندية القضاة والصحفيين، والمحامين على بعد خطوات، “مثلث الرعب” كما يسميه البعض مازحا أو جادا، حيث كثيرا ما تتركز أنظار مصر كلها على تلك الأمتار القليلة، التي لا تتوقف عن خوض معارك السياسة.

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