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هل حقًا “تحت القبة شيخ”؟!

ما نعلمه عن 14 ضريحًا في وسط البلد

بين العمارات الشاهقة أوروبية الطابع والمؤسسات الحكومية الكبرى والمحلات التجارية الحديثة، تبدو أضرحة أولياء الله الصالحين في منطقة وسط البلد وتحديدًا “القاهرة الخديوية” وهوامشها في بولاق أبو العلا والأزبكية، خيطًا رفيعًا متينًا يربط بين حقبتين تاريخيتين مختلفتين هما القاهرة الإسلامية الأولى، وأبنيتها الحديثة ذات الطابع الكوزموبوليتاني التي أراد الخديو إسماعيل عند تخطيطها أن تكون على غرار باريس وروما ولندن.

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لكن المدهش أن المصريين “الشعبيين” تركوا في “مدينة الخديو” المتفرنج لمستهم الخاصة بحفاظهم على الأضرحة والمقامات، حتى وإن لم يعلموا بماهية المدفون فيها أو كراماته، وإذا كان فعلا “تحت القبة شيخ” أم لا، مثل بعض الأضرحة في بولاق ومنطقة العتبة التي اكتشف الأهالي لدى تجديدها أنها بلا شيخ ولم يُدفن بها أحد من الأساس، فحافظوا على المسجد واسمه وهدموا الضريح الخاوي!

ومن النادر أن تجد قرية مصرية في الصعيد أو الدلتا، في سيناء شرقًا أو الواحات غربًا، بدون ضريح لولي من أولياء الله الصالحين يتبرّك به الأهالي ويعتبرونه حارسًا لقريتهم وشفيعًا لهم عند ملك الملوك ويقيمون له الموالد ويقدمون له النذور، ويحفظون سيرته ويتداولون كراماته جيلًا بعد جيل، وهو نفس الحال في “القاهرة الفاطمية” المعروفة بمصر العتيقة التي احتضنت أشهر الأضرحة لآل بيت رسول الله وبعض صحابته والتابعين، لكن حظ وسط البلد كان أقل من القرى ومن مصر القديمة، فبخلاف “السلطان أبو العلا” وبعض الصالحين الذين ذكرهم علي مبارك في كتابه “الخطط التوفيقية” الذي يعد أشهر الكتب الطبوغرافية للقاهرة وأحيائها، لا توجد معلومات عن بقية الأضرحة وسكانها ولا كراماتهم أو نسبهم، وكأنها ظهرت بين يوم وليلة، ومع ذلك يتبرك بهم الأهالي ويقيمون لأغلبهم الموالد ويجددون أضرحتهم من حين لآخر.

في السطور التالية سير وحكايات وأماكن أولياء الله الصالحين في وسط البلد..

يقع ضريح “سيدي حمزة” في شارع هدى شعراوي، بمواجهة “وكالة أنباء الشرق الأوسط”. الضريح ملاصق لمسجد وتزينه ألوان مبهجة، له شبابيك مزخرفة بخشب الأرابيسك، تعلوه قبة خضراء، وعلى لافتة من الرخام يوجد اسم صاحب الضريح وهو العارف بالله سيدي حمزة بن محمد بن هبة الله بن عبد المنعم الصاحب، الشهير بحمزة الصحابي.
على باب الضريح تجلس سيدة في ملابس بسيطة، تعرّف بنفسها قائلة: “أنا صباح قدري، خادمة الضريح موجودة هنا منذ 8 سنين، أقوم بأعمال النظافة، ومن قبلي كان والدي وأجدادي يقومون بنفس العمل”.
وتضيف صباح أن الضريح له محبين كثيرين يحرصون على زيارته والتبرك به  وتجديد الرخام والسجاد.
وتوضح أن مريدي سيدي حمزة كانوا يقيمون مولدًا له يوم 27 شعبان من كل عام، لكن تم وقفه بسبب اعتراضات مؤسسة حكومية مجاورة على الضجيج، حسب قولها، مشيرة إلى أنه يتم حاليًا الاكتفاء بإقامة  “حضرة” تتضمن حلقات ذكر وقراءة القرآن.
اصطحبتنا صباح إلى داخل الضريح، لنجده غرفة ضيقة تكاد لا تستوعب أكثر من خمسة أشخاص، وبداخلها المقام، وتتميز بعلو سقفها ويفصل بينها وبين المسجد من الداخل باب من الأرابيسك.
تقول صباح إن كل من يأتي لزيارة المكان يشعر بالراحة، وتخبرنا بقصة سيدة كانت تواظب دائما على زيارة المقام، وذات مرة اشترت مفرشًا شديد الجمال ووضعته على الضريح، وبعدها جاءها الرسول في المنام ليبشرها بتحقيق ما كانت تتمناه!

إليه تُنسب منطقة بولاق أبو العلا وتشتهر به وتضم مسجده وضريحه، فهو شيخها و”حارسها” كما يعتقد معظم الأهالى.
حين تخطو بقدميك داخل أروقة المسجد، ستجد غرفة كبيرة يتوسطها المقام داخل صندوق خشبي كبير بلون بُني، وتملؤها براويز تحمل آيات قرآنية، وعلى أحد جدرانها برواز كبير معلق على الحائط ومدون عليه تاريخ سيدى السلطان أبـو العـلاء كالآتي: “هو العارف بالله الحسين أبو علي الملقب بالسلطان أبو العلاء من آل بيت رسول الله، ينتهي نسبه إلى سيدى على زين العابدين بن الإمام الحسين بن الإمام علي وسيدتنا فاطمة”.
ويضم ضريح السلطان أبو العلا – كما ورد في كتاب الخطط التوفيقية- إلى جوار جسده الطاهر أجسادًا لأربعة من الصالحين، هم الشيخ عبيد، الشيخ أحمد الكحكي، الشيخ مصطفى البولاقي، والشيخ على حكشة.
ولد السلطان أبو العلاء في مكة أواخر القرن الثامن الهجرى، ثم نزح إلى مصر حيث التقى مع علمائها وأثر فيهم وتأثر بهم حتى أفاض الله عليه وكان من العباد الزاهدين والنساك العارفين إلى درجة عالية، ألا وهي “الولي الكامل”. مكث أبو العلاء في خلوته بحي بولاق مدة 40 عاماً انقطع خلالها إلى العبادة، وعاش 120 عاماً أو يزيد، قطعها كلها فى عبادة الله وطاعته وتوفي سنة 895 هجرية.
تحدثت “منطقتى” مع شابة أثناء زيارتها للمقام، فقالت إنها تزور ضريح السلطان أبو العلاء تبركاً بآولياء الله وصحابة النبى، موضحة أنها ليست زيارتها الأولى، فدائماً ما تأتي هنا لأنها تشعر بالراحة.
أما الحاجة منى حسين التي كانت تدور حول المقام وتدعو الله، فقالت: “أنا لا أحس بالراحة إلا في هذا المكان حيث أكون في حضرة أهل البيت وأتبارك بهم، ولو كان باستطاعتي لأتيت كل يوم”.

رغم حماس الحاج محمد أبو أدهم القوار، صاحب ورشة لصناعة مستلزمات السيارات، الذي رحب بمرافقتنا في جولة للتعرف على ضريح سيدي “أحمد العليمي”، إلا أنه حين وصلنا إلى الحارة الفرنساوى، أو “المحمّرة” كما يطلقون عليها، وجدنا الضريح مغلقاً ولا توجد عليه لافتة، ولا أحد من الأهالى يعرف عنه أية معلومات. يبدو الإهمال الشديد واضحًا على الضريح الذي يستقر داخل أسوار من الطوب الأحمر المتهالك، وعلى بعد خطوات منه تصدم العين أكوام من القمامة.

داخل غرفة صغيرة بمسجد مجاور لوزارة الداخلية وتحديدا في شارع الشيخ ريحان، يوجد مقام الإمام عبد الله المحض الحسني، وكما هو مدون على لافتة رخامية مثبتة فى مدخل المسجد، فهذا الضريح لعبد الله المحض الحسني، وهو عبد الله بن الحسن المُثني بن الحسن السيط، بن علي بن أبي طالب والسيدة فاطمة الزهراء، وأمه السيدة فاطمة النبوية بنت مولانا الإمام الحسين رضي الله عنهم أجمعين، وهو أول مولود من أهل البيت الذي التقى نسبه بالإمام الحسن عن طريق أبيه، وبالإمام الحسين عن طريق أمه رضي الله عنهم.

لقد تقدم الحسن المُثني إلى عمه الحسين خاطباً إحدى ابنتيه فاطمة أو سكينة، وقال له: اختر لي إحداهن، فقال الإمام الحسين: “اخترت لك فاطمة فهي أكثرهما شبها بأمي فاطمة الزهراء، رضي الله عنها بنت رسول الله صلى الله عليه وسلم، أما في الدين فتقوم الليل كله وتصوم النهار، وأما في الجمال فتشبه الحور العين، وأما سكينة فغالب عليها الاستغراق مع الله تعالى فلا تصلح لرجل”. وأثمر زواجهما ثلاثة أبناء هم عبد الله الملقب بالمحض، وإبراهيم الملقب بالقمر، والحسن الملقب بالمثلث، وهؤلاء جميعا ماتوا مخنوقين في سجن أبي جعفر المنصور عام 145 م، حيث نشبت الحملة من جديد على آل البيت في أيام العباسيين.

وقد سُمى عبد الله بالمحض لأنه أول من جمع بين نسب الحسن والحسين رضي الله عنهما، وكان يشبه الرسول صلى الله عليه وسلم، كما كان من شيوخ بني هاشم في زمانه، وقد قيل له مرة: “لمَ صرتم أفضل الناس؟ فقال: “لأن الناس كلهم يتمنون أن يكونوا منا ولا نتمنى أن نكون من أحدهم”. وجدّته لأمه فاطمة هي السيدة أم إسحاق التميمية بنت طلحة بن عبد الله التميمي، كما أن جدة السيدة فاطمة النبوية لأمها هي أم كلثوم بنت أبي بكر الصديق رضي الله عنهما.
أما وصف الضريح، ففي الداخل يوجد المقام في صندوق خشبي كبير مزخرف بالأرابيسك يتوسط الغرفة، وعلقت عليه أفرع نور لتزيينه، أما الغرفة نفسها فحوائطها مطلية باللون الأبيض، وسقفها يأخذ شكل القبة المرتفعة، ومدهونة باللون الأخضر، وفى ثنايا الغرفة علقت عدة براويز لآيات قرآنية ومكتبة صغيرة للكتب، وبراويز كبيرة لشجرة العائلة التي ينتمي إليها الإمام عبد الله الحسني. أما الضريح من الخارج فله قبة واضحة بلون أخضر. وجرى تجديد هذا الضريح على يد عبد القادر محمد (كما هو مدون على اللافتة المثبتة في مدخل المسجد)، وبعده جدده فاعل خير.

حين تتوجه من الجهة المقابلة لوكالة البلح إلى شارع الخطيري، وبالتحديد إلى رقم 38، ستجد ضريح “سيدي الحريري”.
يحكي أحد الأهالى أنه حينما هدموا المسجد لإعادة بنائه حفروا مكان الضريح فلم يجدوا شيئاً من الرفات!
وفي الشارع المقابل لشارع الخطيري يوجد مقام “سيدي عبد الواحد”، لكن بعض أبناء حي بولاق حذروا من التوجه إليه أو محاولة تصويره، مؤكدين أن سكان المنطقة استولوا على الأرض وأغلقوا الضريح.

يهتم سكان شارع بولاق الجديد بضريح “سيدى العمراني” ويزينونه بألوان مبهجة، أما ضريح سيدى نصر الدين المغازي، الذى يقع داخل حرم مسجد بنفس الاسم، فقد طاله الإهمال الشديد.
يقول أحد سكان المنطقة، إن وزارة الأوقاف لا تهتم بالضريح، مضيفا أن الأهالى كانوا ينظمون مولدًا كبيرا للاحتفال بصاحب المقام فيما مضى، أما اليوم فقد اقتصر الأمر على تعليق مصابيح الكهرباء.

في حارتين متجاورتين بمنطقة بولاق أبو العلا، يقع ضريحان لا تتوفر معلومات كافية عنهما. ضريح ومسجد الشيخ فراج يقع في حارة تحمل اسمه هي درب الشيخ فراج، أما حارة درب النصارى فتضم ضريح سيدي الخصوصي.
يقول أحد أبناء المنطقة، إن الأهالى نقلوا ضريح الشيخ فراج أعلى السطح بهدف تجديد المسجد وتوسعته.
ولا يعرف أي من أبناء الحارتين أية معلومات عن الشيخ فراج أو الخصوصي ولا بأي زمن عاشوا أو كيف وصلوا لبولاق، إلا أن الضريحين علامات مميزة للحارات البولاقية.

لا ضريح في مسجد “سيدى سليمان” يضم رفاته. يقول أحد الأهالي إن أبناء بولاق كان لديهم اعتقاد متوارث عن أجدادهم بأن رفات سيدى سليمان مستقرة في قلب المسجد، حتى قاموا بالحفر في المكان منذ سنوات ولم يجدوا شيئاً فقرروا تسويته بالأرض! مع الإبقاء على المسجد باسم سيدي سليمان.

يقع مسجد وضريح “عبد الرحمن أبو السباع” في ممر جانبي ضيق ببعد بأمتار قليلة عن مبنى وزارة الأوقاف بشارع شريف باشا. بمجرد دخولك الممر، تظن أن الزمن عاد بك حوالى مئة سنة، لكن يقطع هذا الظن أصوات عمال مبنى “التوحيد والنور” وأصوات سيارات النقل التي تستغل معظم الأماكن فب الحارة الضيقة وتستخدمها كمخازن.
تطالع على باب المدخل زخرفة قديمة أسفل لوحة مكتوب عليها اسم المسجد، وبفك خط الزخارف تستطيع قراءة الجملة المكتوبة “جدد هذا المسجد في عصر خديو مصر عباس حلمي الثاني الأفخم أدام الله أيامه 1312 هجرية“.
تنبئك الزخارف بالخارج بزخارف أجمل بالداخل، لكن على عتبة المسجد وبعد عدة خطوات تتلاشى هذه الأوهام. سجاد المسجد قديم ومتسخ، الحمامات متهالكة، رائحة سيئة تسكن الجو، والإهمال في كل مكان!

يفصل بين الضريح  الذى تزينه ألوان زاهية تسر الناظرين، وبين سور قصر عابدين خمس حارات من الأسفلت، هي عرض شارع حسن الأكبر. المتداول أن هذا الضريح هو مرقد حسن الأكبر، لكن بسؤال صاحب الورشة المجاورة للمقام، يقول إن ضريح حسن الأكبر يقع داخل سور قصر عابدين وأن هذا المقام اسمه محمد الأربعين.
يقف على باب الضريح عم سيد حسين، الذي يوضح بفخر أنه من سلالة صاحب المقام، بالتحديد من جيل الأحفاد الحادي عشر، وأنه يقوم على خدمة الضريح هو وإخوانه التسعة وأنه ملكية خاصة للعائلة ولا يتبع وزارة الأوقاف.
اسمه الكامل هو “سيدي محمد فخر الدين إبراهيم المغازي”، قدم من المغرب لتلقي العلم على يد سيدي إبراهيم الدسوقي (صاحب المسجد والضريح الشهير بمدينة دسوق بكفر الشيخ) وكان محمد هو التلميذ الأربعين للدسوقي، ولهذا السبب اشتهر باسم سيدى محمد الأربعين.
استقر بمدينة دسوق في بداية إقامته بمصر، ثم انتقل إلى القاهرة حيث عاش لمدة ثلاث سنوات حتى وفاته في نفس المكان الذي يقع فيه ضريحه. يذكر عم سيد أن جده الأكبر سيدي محمد الأربعين تمت مهاجمته والتعدي عليه عند إلقائه إحدى خطبه في باب اللوق في عهد المماليك، وبسؤاله عن السبب يوضح أن كل من يقول الحقيقة في أي زمان، دائما ما يقابل بالعداء من الحاكم، مشيرًا إلى أن جده استمر في الدعوة و إلقاء الخطب، إضافة إلى معرفته بالعلوم الطبيعية مثل الفلك والبحار.
يضيف عم سيد أنه كان هناك مولد يقام لجده كل عام ولكنه توقف منذ حوالى سبعين سنة، يشير إلى صورة معلقة على الجدار يظهر بها الملك فاروق مع جده، ويؤكد أن الملك كان يحضر المولد و لكن الآن نادرا ما يأتي الزوار للضريح، باستثناء افراد معدودين يدخلون  لقراءة الفاتحة من حين لآخر.
نسأل عم سيد عما إذا كان يعرف شيئا عن مقام حسن الأكبر، فيقول أنه داخل سور قصر عابدين متفقا مع ما أخبرنا به صاحب الورشة، ولكنه يتراجع قائلا إنه ليس متأكدا و يخشى أن يقول معلومات مغلوطة.
نتجه إلى قصر عابدين، وبسؤال حراس القصر عن مقام حسن الأكبر، ينكرون وجود أي مقام داخل أسوار القصر ويؤكدون أن المعلومة غير دقيقة، ليبقى مقام حسن الأكبر لغزًا .

حكاية ضريح سيدى عبد القادر الدسوقي غريبة ومثيرة لمن يزور مقامه لأول مرة. في شارع عشماوى المتفرع من شارع عبد العزيز بالأزبكية، وسط سور منخفض من الطوب الأحمر يوجد مسجد كبير  على جدرانه لافتة ورقية كبيرة مكتوب عليها “مسجد العظام”، وعند مدخل المسجد لافتة أخرى من الرخام تحمل اسم “مسجد سيدي عبد القادر الدسوقي”، ما يثير تساؤل أى من هذين الاسمين هو الاسم الصحيح للمسجد؟
الحاج فوزي عبد القادر الدماطي، صاحب أقدم محل مقابل للمسجد ومتخصص في بيع  البليلة والأرز باللبن، يوضح أسباب اختلاف اسم المسجد قائلا إن المنطقة التي تقع بين شارع محمد على وميدان العتبة وشارع عبد العزيز، كانت في السابق مقابر لأولياء الله الصالحين، ومن بينهم سيدي عبد القادر الدسوقي، حتى قام الأمير حسن -أحد أفراد العائلة المالكة- بتطويرها وأمر ببناء مسجد كبير أسماه “مسجد عبد القادر الدسوقي”.
وأضاف أنه بعد تصدع المسجد بسبب زلزال عام 1992 قام الأهالي بترميمه و ردم المقابر وضم جميع الرفات بما فيها رفات سيدي الدسوقي ودفنها أسفل المسجد لذا سمى بـ”مسجد العظام”، مما يفسر سبب إطلاق اسمين على مسجد واحد.
داخل المسجد يوجد غرفة صغيرة بداخلها صندوق خشبي كبير، يوضح لنا الحاج فوزي أنه صندوق فارغ كان في البداية مقاماً لسيدي عبد القادر الدسوقي، مضيفًا أنه لم يكن يقام له مولد سنوى على عكس معظم أولياء الله وأصحاب الكرامات.

على بعد خطوات من ضريح سيدى  عبد القادر الدسوقى وبامتداد شارع العشماوى بالأزبكية، يقع مسجد كبير بلا أي لافتات تحمل اسمه. جدران المسجد متهالكة تستند على أعمدة حديدية منذ نحو 12 عاما، حسب تأكيدات أحد أبناء المنطقة، أما داخل المسجد فيتميز بارتفاع السقف و”مشربية” التهوية وشبابيك مصنوعة من خشب الأرابيسك.
الحاج عبد الفتاح عبده، أحد القائمين على خدمة المسجد أكد لـ”منطقتي” أن هذا المبنى الآيل للسقوط يضم مسجد وضريح سيدي درويش العشماوي أحد أولياء الله الصالحين، موضحا أنه من مواليد مركز الشهداء بمحافظة المنوفية وكان مقيمًا بالقاهرة رغبة فى المعرفة وحباً لآل بيت رسول الله، وكان له أخ أكبر يحبه حبًا شديدًا ثم مرض ومات، وعندما علم الشيخ درويش بموته جن عقله وسقط من شباك المحل الذي كان جالساً به ومشى هائماً على وجهه في الشوارع  إلى أن دخل مستشفى العباسية وظل بها ثلاث سنوات.
ويكمل الحاج عبد الفتاح عبده الحكاية قائلا، إن الشيخ العشماوى عندما خرج من المستشفى توجه إلى حارة الهداوة بشارع عبد العزيز، وانزعج الناس منه فأهداه أحد الأهالى غرفة صغيرة في شارع العشماوى ليعيش فيها.
ويضيف أن التصوف كان شائعا في ذلك الوقت ولم تكن الحركة الوهابية قد بدأت في الظهور، فأصبح هناك مريدون كثيرون للشيخ درويش وذاع صيته بين الأمراء الذين أشاعوا عنه الكرامات وأقاموا له حضرة كل ليلة، وصار الناس يجتمعون حوله ويهادونه بالهدايا، واستمر  الشيخ درويش مقيماً بحارة الهداوة عدة سنوات، ثم انتقل إلى زاويته التي لا تزال محل ضريحه حاليا بشارع العشماوى بمنطقة الأزبكية، حتى مات سنة 1247 هجرية.
ويذكر كتاب “الخطط التوفيقية” ان الخديو عباس علم بكرامات الشيخ درويش بعد وفاته، وتوجه لزيارة ضريحه أثناء ذهابه لأداء فريضة الحج، فاقترح عليه خادم الزاوية الشيخ سليمان وهو أكبر تلامذة الشيخ، توسعة الزاوية لكثرة الفقراء المقيمين بها فوعده الخديو بذلك وعندما عاد من الحجاز قام بشراء البيوت الموجودة بالشارع وأمر ببناء مسجد كبير ضم إليه الزاوية.
حين تدخل ضريح الشيخ درويش، تجد غرفة كبيرة مرتفعة السقف ومهملة إهمالاً شديداً، وفي منتصفها يوجد المقام محاطاً بصندوق زجاجي كبير، فيما يقول الحاج عبد الفتاح في أسى واضح، أن الضريح كان يقام له مولد سنوي،  لكنه توقف منذ نحو ست سنوات بسبب ادعاء الدعوة السنية بأن الموالد بدعة.

يروي كتاب “الخطط التوفيقية” قصة طريفة عن ضريح ومسجد “الخطيرى” الذي كان مشهورًا بمنطقة بولاق أبو العلا قبل اندثاره، موضحًا أن المسجد كان مكاناً مغموراً بماء النيل ثم انحسرت عنه المياه وصار متنزها لأهالي المنطقة، يضم أشجارًا متنوعة ودارا تشرف على النيل عرفت باسم “دار الفاسقين” لكثرة أنواع المحرمات بها.
ويضيف أن الأمير عز الدين إيدمر الخطيرى مملوك شرف الدين الذي رقاه الملك الناصر محمد بن قلاوون حتى صار أميراً، هدم الدار وبنى مكانها مسجدًا أسماه “جامع التوبة”.
ويؤكد الكتاب أن الجامع كان تحفة معمارية تكلفت 400 ألف درهم، لكن المياه أغرقته، فأعاد بناءه وتحصين ساحته عبر حمولة ألف مركب مملوءة بالحجارة، ثم تهدم مرة ثانية بعد موته، ولم يبق منه سوى شارع في المنطقة باسم “الخطيري”.

يقع ضريح سيدى محمد أبو الدلائل المعروف باسم “سيدى أبو الدلايل” في حارة “أبو زينب” داخل منزل متهالك. يقول بعض أبناء حي بولاق أبو العلا إن إحدى العائلات استولت على الضريح وبنت فوقه بيتًا، فيما قال أبناء العائلة لـ “منطقتي” إنهم يضعون أخشاباً على المقام ويمرون من فوقه أثناء الدخول والخروج، نظراً لأن البيت معرض للسقوط في أى وقت، مؤكدين أنهم لن يتركوا المكان تحت أي ظرف.

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